From Exclusion by Design to An Inclusivity Empire: Abercrombie & Fitch’s Transformation
Picture it: the early 2000s, malls buzzing with teens, the unmistakable scent of Fierce cologne wafting through the air, and the iconic moose logo as the badge of the beautiful people. Abercrombie wasn’t just a store; it was a status symbol, a gatekeeper of a very specific kind of “cool”—one that was young, white, and unapologetically exclusive.
I can still smell it. I was fully bought in, too. I loved everything it represented. I wanted to be all of that. But it wasn’t until preparing to discuss the brand on Stirred Up that I knew the real history.
Jessica posing with an Abercrombie & Fitch model on Fifth Avenue, New York City. Photo cred: mom
The Brand Built on Elite Exclusion
Enter the reign of Mike Jeffries, the CEO who wore his mission on his sleeve—and maybe on his overly tanned face. Abercrombie was for the elite, and Jeffries made no apologies for it. With half-naked models outside the store entrances and clothing sizes that whispered “only for the skinny,” the brand embodied an ideal that was both aspirational and deeply toxic.
When Heather and I discuss this time on our podcast, Stirred Up, we reflect on the era where we wore our Abercrombie polos with pride. The memory ignites a mix of nostalgia and disbelief. The brand provided a first taste of “casual luxury,” the airbrushed abs of the in-store models (because they were hardly store staff, right?) comes to mind but we certainly remember the feeling of being on the edge of the invitation. Were we good enough to be here?
What we didn’t know was the alleged behavior of CEO, Mike Jeffries during his 20-year reign and the true damage it did to models, staff and innocent aspiring models.
In the podcast, we discuss the BBC podcast that spend 2 years uncovering the alleged criminal behavior, supported systematically within A&F leadership, that occurred during his entire reign as CEO. It’s horrific. It makes me sick. This man needs to be held accountable. And I’m really not sure I have more words for how I feel about what I learned.
Abercrombie’s Transformation Revealed
But every good story has a phoenix rising from the ashes, and Abercrombie’s rebirth is as dramatic as its fall. Enter Fran Horowitz, the modern-day power-house CEO who agreed to revive the what was considered the most hated brand in America in 2015.
As most women are called to do as a CEO, she would be required to rebuild the brand from the ground up. (Vox)
Forget exclusion. Under Horowitz, Abercrombie’s new core values are the antithesis of exclusion. Today, the brand is no longer about selling a dream that only a few could live. It’s about celebrating everyone, embracing the real diversity of those who walk through its (less intimidating) store doors.
The brand made waves — and profits — with its inclusive sizing, including the wildly popular “Curve Love” denim, reminding shoppers that beauty doesn’t come in a one-size-fits-all mold. The “customer muse” strategy—the idea that Abercrombie should cater to its audience rather than dictate who gets to wear its clothes—was another masterstroke. This customer-centric approach was like a breath of fresh air, washing away the cologne-choked exclusivity of the past.
Half of A&F profits come from online today.
Q1 2021 was the "group’s best second-quarter operating income and margin since 2008, with sales exceeding pre-pandemic levels."
Q1 2024, Abercrombie reported “decade-high” first-quarter net sales and increased its outlook for the rest of 2024.
Holla!
And let’s not forget sustainability. Sure, Abercrombie isn’t perfect, we discuss the transparency Abercrombie has with lingering challenges. These challenges are not unique to A&F, they are commonplace throughout the entire textile industry.
Transparent about ethical sourcing, recycled materials, and the uphill battles of responsible forestry, the brand is making strides. It’s not just talking the talk—it's trying, and that’s more than what could’ve been said in its old, exclusion-driven era.
In the end, do we toast to the brand? Or is it closing time? Take a listen to find out