The Shein Story: The Rise of Fast Fashion's Most Controversial Giant

In the world of fast fashion, Shein has quickly become one of the biggest names, but its success and practices have stirred significant debate. What are the ethical implications of Shein? 

A Quick Look at Fast Fashion

Fast fashion revolutionized the clothing industry by trading seasonal collections for constant, high-speed production. Zara’s parent company pioneered this approach in the 1990s, launching new items every couple of weeks instead of by traditional seasonal cycles. Brands like H&M and Forever 21 soon adopted this model, and the trend accelerated in the late 2010s with the rise of “ultra-fast” fashion brands like Asos, Boohoo, and Fashion Nova. 

Enter Shein, which has taken “ultra-fast” to unprecedented levels. Many have called it Fast Fashion 2.0 and experts question if brands like Zara can even compete. 

Shein’s Meteoric Success

Today, Shein is a global powerhouse, shipping to 220 countries, with the U.S. as its largest market. In June 2024, it even overtook Amazon to become the top shopping app on iOS in the U.S. and holds this position in over 50 countries. Investors project Shein’s growth will continue at a staggering rate, with the company valued at $100 billion and expected to bring in $32.5 billion in revenue by the end of 2023.

Unlike competitors such as Fashion Nova and Missguided, which release about 1,000 new styles each week, Shein can release even more while producing items in smaller quantities. By working with smaller workshops that receive orders in real time, Shein can rapidly test new designs and scale successful ones while keeping unpopular items off shelves. This system resembles the gig economy, with orders sent directly to factory managers' phones in an “Uber-like” model. Unlike many other brands, Shein remains fully online, with no brick-and-mortar stores.

The Mysterious Founder Behind Shein

Despite Shein’s high profile, its founder, Chris Xu (also known as Sky Xu), maintains an enigmatic presence. Born in Shandong, China, Xu worked in SEO and digital marketing before launching Shein in 2008. Though some reports indicate he attended George Washington University, most evidence suggests he graduated from Qingdao University of Science and Technology. Rarely photographed, Xu’s online presence is so scarce that even company employees reportedly would not recognize him. This elusiveness has fostered significant mystery, adding to the intrigue around Shein’s leadership. Most of his employees wouldn’t even recognize him. Why the ultra mystery? 

Shein’s Unique Business Model

Shein’s business model leverages a direct-to-consumer approach with outsourced production. The company works with around 5,400 third-party manufacturers, most of whom are located in China. This is a STAGGERING number compared to other common brands — Good American has a single source; Levi’s works with 650 manufacturers; Patagonia getting it down to around 100. 

SHEIN

To control costs, Shein uses on-demand production, rapidly increasing production of popular items and ceasing production on slow sellers. This approach minimizes inventory waste and keeps costs down, but also raises concerns about the working conditions of the small suppliers Shein relies on.

SHEIN

One notable practice is Shein’s use of a U.S. tariff exemption called the "de minimis" provision, which exempts packages valued under $800 from import taxes. By shipping small, individually addressed packages directly to the consumer instead of to a warehouse, Shein capitalizes on this exemption, bypassing major warehouses and avoiding inspection under the Uyghur Forced Labor Prevention Act (UFLPA), a loophole that has sparked controversy. This typically lengthens shipping time significantly but consumers are willing to look past it for the ridiculously cheap apparel. 

SHEIN worker

The Data-Driven Machine Behind Shein’s Designs

Shein’s ability to analyze and respond to trends is a critical advantage. Using an in-house algorithm, the company mines data from its own customer base and social media to track trending styles. The design team uses this information to create new products quickly, with an impressive pace of 500 new items added daily. If a style proves popular, Shein increases its orders; if it doesn’t, they quickly phase it out. This quick turnover is a primary driver of Shein’s success, as well as a reason for its reputation as a bargain retailer with constantly refreshed inventory.

Shein also encourages engagement on its app, rewarding users for actions such as checking in daily, watching live streams, and participating in outfit contests. This approach has helped build a loyal customer base, especially among young consumers. In a 2022 survey, Shein was the second favorite e-commerce site for American teenagers.

The Future of Fast Fashion

Shein’s success stems from its ability to blend data-driven production with consumer engagement and ultra-fast fashion cycles. But the company’s rapid growth and dominance in the fast fashion world raise questions about the long-term sustainability of its practices, especially given the environmental and ethical concerns inherent in its model.

As Shein moves forward, its strategy will likely continue to evolve in response to regulatory pressures, consumer demands for transparency, and ongoing scrutiny of its labor practices. Whether this “fast fashion 2.0” giant can continue to scale while addressing these issues remains to be seen, but one thing is certain: Shein has reshaped the fashion industry in profound and lasting ways.

From Exclusion by Design to An Inclusivity Empire: Abercrombie & Fitch’s Transformation

Picture it: the early 2000s, malls buzzing with teens, the unmistakable scent of Fierce cologne wafting through the air, and the iconic moose logo as the badge of the beautiful people. Abercrombie wasn’t just a store; it was a status symbol, a gatekeeper of a very specific kind of “cool”—one that was young, white, and unapologetically exclusive.

I can still smell it. I was fully bought in, too. I loved everything it represented. I wanted to be all of that. But it wasn’t until preparing to discuss the brand on Stirred Up that I knew the real history. 

Jessica posing with an Abercrombie & Fitch model on Fifth Avenue, New York City. Photo cred: mom

The Brand Built on Elite Exclusion

Enter the reign of Mike Jeffries, the CEO who wore his mission on his sleeve—and maybe on his overly tanned face. Abercrombie was for the elite, and Jeffries made no apologies for it. With half-naked models outside the store entrances and clothing sizes that whispered “only for the skinny,” the brand embodied an ideal that was both aspirational and deeply toxic.

When Heather and I discuss this time on our podcast, Stirred Up, we reflect on the era where we wore our Abercrombie polos with pride. The memory ignites a mix of nostalgia and disbelief. The brand provided a first taste of “casual luxury,” the airbrushed abs of the in-store models (because they were hardly store staff, right?) comes to mind but we certainly remember the feeling of being on the edge of the invitation. Were we good enough to be here?

What we didn’t know was the alleged behavior of CEO, Mike Jeffries during his 20-year reign and the true damage it did to models, staff and innocent aspiring models.

In the podcast, we discuss the BBC podcast that spend 2 years uncovering the alleged criminal behavior, supported systematically within A&F leadership, that occurred during his entire reign as CEO. It’s horrific. It makes me sick. This man needs to be held accountable. And I’m really not sure I have more words for how I feel about what I learned.

Abercrombie’s Transformation Revealed

But every good story has a phoenix rising from the ashes, and Abercrombie’s rebirth is as dramatic as its fall. Enter Fran Horowitz, the modern-day power-house CEO who agreed to revive the what was considered the most hated brand in America in 2015.

As most women are called to do as a CEO, she would be required to rebuild the brand from the ground up. (Vox)

Forget exclusion. Under Horowitz, Abercrombie’s new core values are the antithesis of exclusion. Today, the brand is no longer about selling a dream that only a few could live. It’s about celebrating everyone, embracing the real diversity of those who walk through its (less intimidating) store doors.

The brand made waves — and profits — with its inclusive sizing, including the wildly popular “Curve Love” denim, reminding shoppers that beauty doesn’t come in a one-size-fits-all mold. The “customer muse” strategy—the idea that Abercrombie should cater to its audience rather than dictate who gets to wear its clothes—was another masterstroke. This customer-centric approach was like a breath of fresh air, washing away the cologne-choked exclusivity of the past.

Half of A&F profits come from online today.

• Q1 2021 was the "group’s best second-quarter operating income and margin since 2008, with sales exceeding pre-pandemic levels."

• Q1 2024, Abercrombie reported “decade-high” first-quarter net sales and increased its outlook for the rest of 2024.

Holla!

And let’s not forget sustainability. Sure, Abercrombie isn’t perfect, we discuss the transparency Abercrombie has with lingering challenges. These challenges are not unique to A&F, they are commonplace throughout the entire textile industry.

Transparent about ethical sourcing, recycled materials, and the uphill battles of responsible forestry, the brand is making strides. It’s not just talking the talk—it's trying, and that’s more than what could’ve been said in its old, exclusion-driven era.

In the end, do we toast to the brand? Or is it closing time? Take a listen to find out

The Power of Fit: How Emma Grede and Khloe Kardashian Are Changing the Denim Game

Which brand generated $1 million in its first day, setting a record as the most successful denim launch in apparel history?

Of course it belongs to a Kardashian. But Kardashian is only part of the story. 

Good American started as a vision by Emma Grede. The vision wasn’t just about selling jeans; it was about giving women something they had long been denied—denim that actually fit, without compromising on style. Good American wasn’t just selling clothing; it was selling empowerment.

Emma Grede, a seasoned fashion marketing professional, recognized a glaring gap—a lack of stylish, well-made jeans for women of all sizes. With an eye for both the market and cultural trends, Grede reached out to Kris Jenner, not merely with a business proposal, but with a vision—a vision for a brand that would transform the way women experience denim. It was a story destined to go beyond the typical fashion narrative, one that started with an unexpected partnership between Grede and Khloe Kardashian.

Grede’s pitch, tailored for Kardashian, was as bold as it was insightful. She saw in Khloe an advocate for body positivity and someone who had publicly championed self-love and inclusivity. Together, in 2016, they founded Good American, a denim brand that dared to be different, with size inclusivity and body positivity at its very core. Offering a range from sizes 00 to 22, Good American made a statement not only in fashion but in culture: every woman deserves to feel good in her jeans.

The brand today boasts an estimated $155 million in revenue but a combined retail and direct to consumer (DTC) that gives it a growth platform that may be unmatched by other modern textile brands, specifically within the denim category. 

DTC accounts for 40% of the brand’s revenue, underscoring the success of a business model that embraced both accessibility and digital reach. But the leaders know that customers need to experience the product in person to understand the innovation they’ve provided the market. They also partner with retailers like Nordstrom and have even stood up their own storefronts in recent years to further capture share of converted buyers. 

Good American is uniquely working with just one supplier of denim. There is not a textile brand I’ve observed yet that has made this move. Most work with hundreds of textile suppliers. The advantage here is extremely high standards and confidence of sustainable sourcing and safe labor standards. 

On the flip side, Good American is only a $155 million brand compared to the $14 billion of Levi for example. Will the supplier be able to scale with Good American? What kinds of supply chain constraints do they find themselves at risk of in the future with this model in place. 

It will be yet to be seen. But the clear answer is that we will see the future where Good American is a real competitor to billion dollar fashion brands. 

Can we clink to Good American? I think the answer is obvious. But take a listen to the podcast and find out anyway. 

Riveted in Time: Pivotal Moments in Levi History

It was 1873. It was the peak of California’s gold rush. A woman entered the local miner and cowboy outfitter store owned by Levi Strauss. She expressed that her husband’s dungaree pockets routinely ripped under the strain of hard labor as a gold miner. Wasn’t there something that could be done? He happened to be working on a saddle rivet. So he applied a metal rivet to dungarees, improving the durability to withstand the strain by laborers and cowboys. And history was made. 

The dungarees were quickly popular, creating a statement for wealthy visiting Easterners of an icon of the western cowboy. They became a statement. Denim-wrapped rebels, Hollywood stars, and everyone chasing a piece of the American spirit made Levi’s their own. The brand flourished through decades, becoming synonymous with individualism and resilience.

More than 100 years of business does not come without struggles. The 2000s rolled in, Levi’s found itself in a slump. Denim had lost its charm for many, as comfort became paramount. The company, struggling to remain relevant, needed a spark to reignite the brand.

On a night out at a nice restaurant with his wife, the new CEO of Levi’s in the mid-2000’s observed women wearing leggings and the fashionable acceptance of such apparel was mystifying him. His wife explained how uncomfortable jeans are. Any woman can relate — just listen Heather’s commentary on the topic! 

The simplicity of her insight was undeniable. Levi’s decided to focus on the untapped potential: comfort. In 2015, they launched a new line of women’s denim designed to rival the flexibility and ease of leggings—stretch denim that gave without sacrificing style. It was a gamble, a radical departure from the traditional stiffness of denim. But it was exactly what Levi’s needed to adapt, and the gamble paid off. Women flocked back to Levi’s jeans, and the company saw eleven straight quarters of growth.

The StirredUp take? Women are the quiet force behind Levi’s existence, not just its success. It’s a story not of grand strategy but of being present, listening to whispers of change, and taking risks to evolve, forever riveted into the history of American fashion.

And Levi is not done. At the force behind yet another powerful woman, Levi is at front stage with a huge partnership, product and content deal with superstar, Beyonce. 

Google Trends Interest after Announcement of Beyonce Partnership